FAQ

Myson products are known for their outstanding quality, resource-saving technology and maximum efficiency. That is why Purmo Group offers you additional warranty services over and above the statutory warranty.

Myson radiators are guaranteed against all manufacturing defects for 10 years from the date of purchase, provided they are operated in compliance with national standards and regulations for a heating system with hot water. The warranty does not apply to defects caused by installation or handling errors, misuse or factors external to the radiators, such as water quality or oxygen-permeable pipes.

For galvanised radiators the warranty is 6 years for galvanized radiators. A product warranty of 2 years applies to all electronic and moving components and spare parts (valve inserts, side covers, top grilles, plastic clips, plugs, air vents, fixing parts).

In the Where to Buy section of our website you can find a dedicated page which provides an overview of distributors who offer Myson products. You can easily search based on cities near you.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to our in-house experts in case of any product related questions. You can find our contact details in the contact section of our website or fill in the contact form. We will provide an answer as soon as possible.

In order to keep our products, customer service and environmental care, a source of pride for us and our partners, we continuously operate within accepted quality standards at every functional step and stage.

Since the 90s we implement an Integrated Quality & Environment Management System. This system is based on the ISO 9001 quality standard and the ISO 14001 environmental standards, which are granted to us by the British Standards Institution and TUV-Rheinland.

All Myson radiators and convectors are CE marked based on the harmonized standard EN442.

You can download BIM components for our most popular products from BIMStore: https://www.bimstore.co/manufacturers/myson

The app is FREE and can be downloaded from Google Play or in the App Store.

The Unisenza Plus gateway is the heart of your smart heating system. It's essential for unlocking the full potential of your Unisenza Plus smart heating & cooling system. Find full details on the Unisenza Plus support page.

For more information on Unisenza Plus, including a detailed set-up guide, go to our Unisenza Plus support page.

Unisenza Plus heating controls are compatible with almost all heating systems, including: combi, system, and heat-only boilers, conventional and condensing boilers, hydronic underfloor heating systems.

There are two ways to pair devices to the Unisenza Plus gateway - with or without the app. You can view our step-by-step videos here.

It is available for iOS 15 and above, and Android 9 and above.

For more support on Unisenza Plus, including FAQs and set-up guides, go to the Unisenza Plus support page.

Currently no, Unisenza Plus is not compatible with Apple Homekit, but it does work with Amazon Alexa and Google Home.

Radiators which are exposed to prolonged extreme conditions, such as high humidity or severe cold/condensation, may be subject to deterioration. For more details see our Consumer Advisory Statement

If your radiators are cold at the top and hot at the bottom, the radiator needs venting. Simply turn off the heating system and slightly open the air vent (this will require a radiator key) until water is noted at the air vent. Take care to protect decorated surfaces with a cloth prior to opening the air vent. Gently close the vent and switch the system back on. If the radiators need venting frequently, there may be a fault with the system and a heating engineer should be called.

See our video: How to Bleed Your Radiator or Towel Warmer

Please refer to our Homeowner Guide for more information

This indicates that the radiator may have an insufficient flow of water to heat it effectively. Large radiators need a higher water flow than small radiators. There may be several reasons for this such as incorrect balancing, incorrect pipe sizes or an under-performing or under-sized pump. A heating engineer should be called to carry out further investigations.

A direct system is one where the tap water actually mixes with the water in the radiators. An indirect system separates the tap water from the radiator water. Myson radiators must only be fitted to an indirect system.

LST radiators are advisable for areas where vulnerable people may injure themselves if left in contact with a traditional radiator. Such applications are generally hospitals, nurseries and other healthcare and educational facilities. They can also be used in children's bedrooms and playrooms.

Decorative grilles can be fitted, however they will reduce the output of a radiator by around 3-5% depending on the design. Radiator cabinets will significantly reduce heat output.

No single radiator type is efficient in every installation situation. The area of application and usage will define which system will be the most efficient. In bathroom applications, additional benefits such as towel drying and ease of use are often the main focus. If you are replacing a radiator, find the correct models for your new heat source and calculate the correct output with our output calculator. It shows you the right models of each radiator for your required target output, so that the desired room temperature is reliably reached.

Caution: This output calculator does not replace the standard-compliant heating load calculation.

Determining radiator output is a science in itself, because various influencing factors must be considered. In principle, radiators must supply the room with exactly the amount of heat that is lost through exterior walls, windows, etc. The surface area of the respective external components, the thermal insulation value, the room and outdoor temperature and much more are crucial for this. Precise output can only be determined by your installer calculating the heating load. However, we have compiled some average values per square metre of living space to provide an estimated calculation.

Type                                                                        Watt/square metre

Living room, new building                                   50-60 W/m²

Bathroom, shower, WC, new building              80-110 W/m²

Living room, low-energy house                         30-40 W/m²

Bathroom, shower, WC, low-energy house     60-80 W/m²

Living space, old building                                    80-130 W/m²

Bathroom, shower, WC, old building                 120-150 W/m²

Radiators should generally be placed under the window and, if possible, over the entire width of the window. Windows have a lower thermal insulation value than exterior walls. This also results in a lower surface temperature. In order to prevent draughts in this area, a radiator should absorb this cold air drop. An enduring trend in new and energy-renovated buildings is space-saving vertical radiators, as insulation and energy-saving windows mean that it is no longer essential to locate a radiator in the niche under the window. Rather, it can now be located anywhere in the room. As a result, the radiator is increasingly becoming the focal point, as an interior design element and the design requirements have also increased accordingly.

The lowest temperature for a radiator is a 45°C flow temperature. Below this value, natural convection no longer takes place and the heat output is extremely limited. Radiators with an integrated fan are ideal for temperatures below 45°, such as heat pumps. These generate artificial convection and facilitate high heat output with small dimensions.

Low-temperature radiators are recommended as the best radiator for heat efficiency. When used in conjunction with a modern heat generator, a high level of efficiency can be achieved.

Before bleeding, all thermostatic valves on the radiators should be opened fully with the heating system switched on. Then switch off the circulation pump/heat generator and wait approx. 20 minutes. Then begin with the highest radiator, as most of the air accumulates here. After this, all other radiators can be bled. The system pressure may have to be reset by means of topping up the water. Finally, return the system to operation and the return the thermostatic valves to their original settings.

For more extensive information on when and how to bleed a radiator, please watch our video: How to Bleed Your Radiator or Towel Warmer

We do not recommend that you paint radiators yourself, as this can lead to reduced heat output and possibly to harmful vapours and the so-called fogging-effect. It also invalidates the product's warranty. Our radiators are electrophoretically primed and finished with a particularly resistant and entirely odour-neutral stove enamel finish. You can choose from a wide range of fashionable colours.

As a general rule, radiator covers supplied by the manufacturer do not lead to heat losses. If you would like to visually enhance your radiator, it is essential to consider installing a radiator that meets your requirement s. Nowadays, there are many attractive and beautifully designed radiators. Flat radiators are available with flat fronts, rounded edges and in a wide range of colours.

When installing a radiator under a window sill, 100% power output can only be guaranteed if the air circulation is not impaired, i.e. there must be sufficient clearance above and below the radiator.

In practice, the upper distance is determined according to the formula installation depth of the radiator +10%. Top Clearance TC = D x 1.1. If this value cannot be achieved for structural reasons, a reduction in performance is to be expected.

Radiators are equipped with side and top covers for aesthetic reasons. These are installed securely on the radiator. Depending on the connection type, it may be possible to remove them with a certain amount of force in order to clean the radiator if necessary.

There are differences in the design depending on the type of radiator. With conventional heating systems, the entire system is operated with hot water. Purely electric radiators, on the other hand, are not connected to a system, but are individually filled with a heat transfer oil or water/glycol mixture, or they are radiators that are heated by means of a heating mat or film.

The heating system itself can be operated with a wide variety of fuels, such as gas, wood, oil or district heating. The heat generated is fed into the system and the water is heated in order to then be transported to the radiators. There the heat is released into the room air.

Natural gas cannot escape from radiators because only hot water is used to dissipate the heat in the heating circuit. Gas is only used as fuel for heat generation and the heating water and hot water are heated via a heat exchanger.

If a radiator is operated with water heated to 70°C, for example, there is a risk of skin burns in the event of prolonged contact. The limit temperature is a surface temperature of approx. 60°C. In kindergartens, therefore, the surface temperature of a radiator must not exceed 60°C.

When renovating an existing radiator system or for existing pipes that protrude horizontally from the wall, flat radiators such as the Compact and Plan Compact replacement radiators are particularly recommended.

Plan Valve Compact, Plan Valve Compact M, Ramo Valve Compact, Valve Compact and Valve Compact M valve radiators are suitable for new builds and connection to radiators from below.

For special applications such as bathrooms, hallways or kitchens, as well as for special design requirements, we naturally also offer a wide range of modern radiators such as bathroom radiators and designer radiators. Of particular interest in this regard is the tubular radiator DELTA Laserline, whose application possibilities are almost limitless.

Deciding on the best radiator to replace old ones depends on various factors. Has the heating load, for example, changed as a result of refurbishment? Should the existing connections and pipework continue to be used? Moreover, the design also plays a role. In any case, a specialist should be consulted for advice.

To guarantee a safe radiator installation it should be carried out by a specialised installer.

For these specific applications we offer hygiene radiators that don’t have inner convection sheets and are partly without top grill and side covers for easy cleaning. We offer column radiators as well which are also easy to clean and are ideal for hospitals, medical rooms, laboratories, ...

Radiators can also be combined very well with heat pumps. The flow temperature should be approx. 45°C.

Myson radiators are standard available in white. However, you can choose from a wide range of 70 different colours to personalise the radiators and ensure a perfect match with the interior.

Please refer to our Homeowner Guide for more information

It depends on the product, the pipe connections, and what surface it is mounted on. Usually you have allow for the ‘T’ piece which connects to the valve therefore it’s best to fit the kit at the time of installation. On traditional products this may be easier as there is a connection on the towel rail (usually the RH ball joint) which can be unscrewed and a PTC element can be added after installation.

Yes, but the IP rating must be IP65, and it must be located away from any water projection

This indicates that the towel warmer may be receiving an insufficient flow of water. Typically, larger towel warmers need a higher water flow than smaller towel warmers. There may be several reasons for this, such as incorrect balancing, incorrect pipe size or an under-performing or under-sized pump (If applicable) there may also simply be a blockage in the towel warmer. A heating engineer should be called to carry out further investigations.

In certain areas the local water can generally remove zinc from brass alloys. This process is called dezincification and, on rare occasions and over time, can affect the integrity of brass. All Myson products are manufactured using dezincification resistant brass. This however does not entirely eliminate the possibility of dezincification occurring.

A hydronic towel warmer runs off the central heating, and electric products is hard wired into a fuse spur and is generally filled with a glycol mix (part water, part anti-freeze)

Chrome plating creates an extra layer of metal that insulates the towel warmer and reduces the heat output; this is approximately 30-35% less than a painted towel warmer. Consider painted and metallic paint options for higher outputs.

All Myson products have been officially output tested and carry the CE mark.

No, when using the Myson Kickspace accessories only one Kickspace can be controlled via a single external thermostat. If this application is required then a traditional thermostat (not the Kickspace thermostat accessory) must be used to control the live supply to the Kickspace only.

Yes, it is possible to use the range of accessories sold separately by Myson. Note: Only one Kickspace can be controlled via a single external control also the controls are only compatible with Kickspace 500, 600, 600-12V and 800 models therefore are not compatible with the Kickspace electric or Duo models.

Please ensure the Kickspace is in heating mode (sun icon). If the Kickspace is in fan-only mode (snowflake) then the fan will run continuously until manually switched off.

The Kickspace remote switch and thermostats are compatible with the Kickspace 500, 600, 600-12V and 800 models and therefore are not compatible with the Kickspace electric and Duo models.

Please ensure the Kickspace is in heating mode (Sun icon) If the Kickspace is in fan-only mode (snowflake) then the fan will run continuously until manually switched off.

This would indicate a lack of flow rate from the heating system, some possible ways to check this would be to test them temperatures of the flow and return pipes they should both be piping hot therefore if one is hot and the other is noticeably cooler then this would suggest a lack of flow rate in the system. Another way to test this would be to turn all the radiators on the heating system off thus directing all available flow rate to the Kickspace and allowing it to work correctly. Some reasons for this could be incorrect pipe sizes or undersized pump/faulty pump. On this occasion please contact your installer.

iVector S2 is highly versitile and can be wall-mounted, recessed in the wall, ceiling-mounted or recessed in the ceiling. It can also be mounted on the floor or fully concealed in a suspended ceiling with an air inlet/outlet.

Convection heaters operate on the principle that the room air is drawn to the unit from underneath where a convection heating element is located. The air passes over the heating element and flows out through the top of the unit as warm air.

A fan coil works according to the same principle as a standard convector, but has an increased air flow through the heating element as the air flow is supported by means of a ventilator.

The working principle is similar, but a radiator emits a bigger part of radiation heat from the warm radiator surface, while a convector just heats with convection heat which is generated with the air flow through the radiator. The convector surface is not warm.

In case of a fan convector the air flow is forced by a ventilator. This also allows you to increase the number of heating fins on the heating element. Both factors increase the heat output of the fan convector and allow for fast room heating.

To avoid condensation on windows a fan supported variant should be chosen, as the fans push the warm air up and secure a distribution over the entire window surface.

Yes, you have to take care that the fan coils and convectors are bled. This ensures that the chosen heating power can be submitted into the room.

Convectors are perfect for use in combination with a heat pumps. Fan convectors are far more efficient than radiators. Using them in combination with an air-source heat pump in a new build should show at least a 12% reduction in running costs and carbon emissions when compared to radiators in combination with a heat pump. In fact, they approach the efficiency achieved by underfloor heating.

The pipes should be sized based on the flow rate requirement of the product and should be no less than 15mm. The minimum flow rate will vary depending on the size of iVector being installed and can range between 340 – 800 l/hr Please refer to the installation manual for more information. Note: If pipes are under sized then a potential issue will be lack of heating performance and possible the fan switching on/off intermittently.

Every iVector is fitted with a low limit sensor, meaning when the central heating switches on and the pipes warm up the sensor will activate the fans. Then when the central heating systems is off and the pipes cool down the sensor will switch the fans off.

The heating system technology is similar to that of radiators, with the difference that heating water is not fed to the radiators, but flows through the pipes of the underfloor heating system. The heat exchangers are mainly located in the floor. The systems can also be installed in the wall or ceiling. In contrast to standard radiator heating, underfloor heating uses a low supply temperature (between 30 and 35°C), which results in a high level of energy efficiency.

Underfloor heating is one of the so-called radiation systems that emit more than 97% of their heat as infrared radiation. In comparison, radiators, for example, give off up to 80% of their output as convection heat, i.e. by heating and circulating the air. The advantage of radiant heaters is that they do not directly heat and circulate the air in the room. Radiant heating only heats objects (furniture, walls, people, etc.) that are exposed to infrared radiation. On the one hand, the heated objects have a uniform temperature (low radiation asymmetry), which leads to a high level of comfort. On the other hand, due to the low circulation of room air, no dust particles or allergens are "swirled up", which leads to a higher level of tolerance, for example, for allergy sufferers.

Today, buildings have an average heating load of approx. 30-50 W/m2. During the entire heating season, the average heating load is approx. 10-20 W/m2. In order for underfloor heating to provide maximum performance at a room temperature of 20°C, for example, it only needs to heat the floor to 23-25°C (i.e. to 21-22°C on average). If you touch this floor with your hand (hand temperature of approx. 35°C), it feels "cold" in comparison to radiators (surface temperature of approx. 50°C). This low floor temperature is therefore not a defect in the system, but is absolutely sufficient to warm up the room comfortably.

It is not possible to provide a definitive answer to the question of whether underfloor heating or the use of radiators is better. The answer always depends on the area of use, requirements and habits of the users. Radiators deliver high heat output quickly and promptly, which facilitates rapid and cosy temperature control of rooms. By contrast, underfloor heating systems operate with continuous, consistent heat output at low system temperatures. In order to find an optimum solution, it is necessary to clarify all factors in advance and incorporate them into the planning of a new heating system.

In principle, it can be assumed that the purchase costs are comparable to those of radiators. However, when it comes to renovation, there may be variations depending on the extent of the project. Radiators make it possible to replace only the old radiators, without the need to interfere with the building structure.

Installing underfloor heating can result in higher costs during the renovation phase, as the floor must be replaced. In return, operating costs are somewhat lower as underfloor heating systems operate on a low-temperature system.

In a direct price comparison between underfloor heating and radiator heating, it must be taken into account that underfloor heating and insulation are usually included in the system price. This is not the case for heating systems using radiators. However, in order to find the best solution for your needs, it is important to always keep in mind the entire initial situation and user behaviour when choosing a specific system or a combination of different systems.

Whether an underfloor heating system can replace radiators depends on the application requirements. In a conventional renovation, where only the heat exchanger is to be replaced without adapting the building structure, it is difficult to switch to underfloor heating, as the heat output of underfloor heating and the available options for underfloor installation are limited. Nowadays, however, there are special renovation systems that provide high heat output levels with very low installation heights.

It goes without saying that underfloor heating systems can be used instead of radiators in new buildings. The user behaviour, the structural design of the building and the selected system technology must be taken into account in the planning.

Underfloor heating can be used without any problems under carpets, parquets, etc. However, there are a few factors to consider. Firstly, it should be ensured that the floor covering has the lowest possible RD value (thermal resistance). Floor coverings with a high RD value insulate the underfloor heating and reduce system efficiency. Secondly, the floor covering should be approved by the manufacturer for use on underfloor heating systems and the maximum permissible surface temperatures should be observed, particularly for parquets.

Underfloor heating systems can easily be used under wooden floors. In contrast to other floor coverings, however, a few observations should be made. On the one hand, wood has a higher thermal resistance than tiles, for example. This should be compensated for in the design by using a slightly higher system temperature or a narrower installation spacing. Furthermore, wood can contain a certain amount of moisture, which may cause it to move. For this reason, seasoned wood that is suitable for use with underfloor heating should be used. When installing, please always observe the manufacturer’s specifications regarding the application area of the flooring.

Underfloor heating systems can be used in combination with laminate flooring. There is only one restriction in the system selection. All wet systems can be used with laminate floors. For dry systems, it is important to ensure the necessary load balance over the laid surface. Therefore, when combining a dry system with laminate flooring, an additional load balancing layer (Strongboard, Fermacell) is required.

Underfloor heating systems are either hydraulic (using hot water) or electric. In heating systems, gas refers to the design of the heat generator that heats the water in hydraulic systems. Heat generators can be operated with gas, oil, solid fuels or as heat pumps. Due to the low system temperatures, a heating system with a heat pump is now recommended for underfloor heating systems. Warm water flows through the floor heating elements themselves and the heat is dissipated to the rooms via the floor.

When using hydraulic or hydronic underfloor heating systems, no more electricity is required than for radiators in the system. The only components that use electricity are the control technology components, such as the room thermostat and the actuators for temperature control.

Entirely electric systems are possible, but are only used to a limited extent. During installation, the electrical planning must be dimensioned and tested accordingly with all necessary fuses and connection sizes.

The power requirements are related to the volume of the room you want to install the radiator in. In a properly insulated house you need about 40 watts / m3. However, if your building is poorly insulated, you should plan for higher power heating. We recommend to do so only as a short-term solution while you plan insulation improvements.

To combine an ideal warmth with a reasonable energy consumption, you can follow this indicative scale of recommend temperatures:

• During the day: 19°C (Comfort)

• At night: 16°C (Eco) – keep shutters and curtains closed to conserve heat

• In case of a short absence up to 48 hours: 16°C

• In case of a longer absence: set the radiator to Frost Free

• In the bathroom: 22°C during a shower or bath

Electric radiators offers several energy-saving benefits:

• Electric radiators are 100% energy efficient at point of use. They convert every watt of electricity into heat and don’t lose energy via a connection to the pipes and boiler.

• Electric radiators allow for very local heating. You can heat only the rooms that you need and don’t need to send hot water through the entire pipe system to heat one room.

• You have full control over every electric radiator as each radiator is equipped with its own thermostat and controls so you only use energy when it’s really needed.

Yes, all our electric radiators are safe for use in a bathroom. However, we recommend to double check with your qualified electrician and to install your electric radiator at least 0,6 meter from a shower, bath tub or sink.

All the required wall brackets and screws for fixed installation are included in the packaging.

Yes, if the radiators are equipped with a remote thermostat, you can pair up to 10 radiators to a single thermostat.

Yes, an electric radiator is never completely filled. This allows the fluid inside the radiator to expand as it heats up. The amount of fluid is calibrated very carefully at the factory, depending on the type of radiator.

There are several possibilities:

• The set temperature is reached. The radiator no longer needs to heat the air in the room. It will start heating again as soon as the room temperature drops below the criteria you have set on your thermostat.

• Your electric radiator is in Eco mode. The radiator will heat up when the room temperature has dropped 3.5°C in relation to the comfort mode temperature setting (set temperature requested on the thermostat). Try switching to comfort mode.

• There is no power supply (all lights are off). Check that all the circuit breakers in the installation are switched on.

• The electronic regulation of your radiator contains a microprocessor that can be disturbed. Cut the radiator’s electrical supply (by cutting the circuit breaker, fuse...) for about 10 minutes to reinitialise the electronics. If the phenomenon occurs frequently, have the electrical meter checked by your energy distributor.

• The radiator’s resistance is defective. You can measure this with an ohm meter. If the resistor is defective, have your installer replace it.

• Open window detection is ON and the radiator recognised a temperature drop of 2°C in a short period of time. Then the radiator will be OFF until the room temperature is stable again.

• If all these checks have been carried out and the malfunction persists, call your installer so that he can determine the source of the problem.

There are several possibilities:

• The temperature sensor at the bottom of the radiator may be disturbed by a draught. Check that your electric radiator is not located in a draught. Be careful not to install an electric radiator under an air vent.

• The installed heating capacity is insufficient for the size of your room to be fully heated.

• The comfort mode setting has been changed. Lower the comfort mode setpoint temperature.

• If the malfunction persists, switch off the power supply to the electric radiator from the electrical panel and contact your installer.

There are several possibilities:

• Check that the comfort mode temperature has not been changed. Try turning the radiator to maximum.

• A door is open. Try closing off the room in which the radiator is installed.

• The installed heating capacity is insufficient for the size of your room to be heated.

The radiator is most likely not set to programming mode. Position all the mode sliders in front of the "AUTO" symbol and make sure that the central programming unit is used correctly (see instructions).

Remove the batteries for 10 minutes to reboot your thermostat. After this period, insert the batteries again. Your thermostat will work normally.

You don’t need to bleed a liquid filled electric radiator. This type of radiator requires very little maintenance and, unlike hydronic radiators, doesn’t need bleeding or balancing. All that is required is to clean the radiator once in a while with a damp cloth and Ph-neutral soap.

The pictogram on the product label indicates that the radiator cannot be disposed of with other waste and needs to be handled separately for reuse or recycling. At the end of its lifespan, the electric radiator should be returned to an appropriate collection point for the treatment of electric waste. For more information on collection, treatment, recovery and recycling points, please contact your local authority or waste collection service, or the shop where you purchased the radiator.

In addition to electric radiators, there are also electric floor, wall and ceiling heating systems. The differences between the two heating systems are more or less the same as with hydraulic radiators and surface heating. In contrast to hydraulic surface heating, electric surface heating requires lower installation heights. Depending on the system, 2-3 mm of installation height is sufficient. The disadvantage of electrical systems is currently that they cannot be cooled.

As long as you do not exceed 3,200 watts you can wire 2 mats into one thermostat, a qualified electrician must carry this out.

This is possible but must be carried out by a qualified electrician.

IP - Ingress Protection Rating. This is used for electrical products within bathrooms, degrees of protection on the first digit of the IP code indicates the degree that persons are protected against contact with moving parts. The second digit indicates the degree of protection against equipment inside the enclosure against harmful entry of various forms of moisture.

A ‘drain off’ facility is an additional feature offered on all Myson manual valves. It allows water to be easily drained from either the radiator or heating system, with the minimum of inconvenience.

Automatic by-pass valves are used in domestic central heating to maintain constant pump pressure and flow rate within the system. ABV's also reduce system noise and increase efficiency.

A wiring centre is a simple, clear and safe method of wiring an individual room control system. It is the connection between the room thermostats and the actuators that open and close the valves on the manifold. Wiring centres also have useful additional functions such as pump or boiler connections, valve protection, inputs for change over signals for heating or cooling, etc.

In principle, room thermostats are nothing more than temperature-dependent switches. If the room temperature exceeds the setpoint, the circuit opens and the actuator closes the heating circuit valve. Room thermostats are available either in a surface-mounted version or as a flush-mounted version for mounting on flush-mounted boxes. With so-called bi-metal thermostats, two connections may be sufficient, as the mechanical function means that it would be enough to just interrupt the circuit. Nowadays electronic thermostats need at least three connections (L, N and switched output). If additional signals such as heating/cooling switching, central time control, etc. are added, there can also be more connections. Since electrical wiring is safety-relevant, it should be carried out by a professional.

Connecting wireless thermostats, boiler or heat pump controls, wiring centres and other accessories is now very easy. For example, with the PG Unisenza Plus system, it can be done manually on the various devices or conveniently via the app on your smartphone.

In principle, the installation or installation location of a wireless thermostat is no different from that of a wired thermostat. The ideal installation location is around 1.50 m high, out of sunlight and draught. With wireless components, care should also be taken to ensure that they are not shielded from metal objects or placed near devices with strong electromagnetic radiation.

The Unisenza Plus gateway is not compatible with other hubs or devices. It has full Zigbee 3.0 functionality, many special functions, compatibility with the app and tested security is only possible with the original Myson components. Since the Unisenza Plus range works according to the Zigbee 3.0 protocol, the devices could theoretically be integrated into other Zigbee systems, but then only with limited functionality. Furthermore, we cannot offer support or guarantees here.

Up to 100 end devices such as intelligent room thermostats, radiator valve controllers (E-TH), relay boxes/receivers, sensors, etc. can be connected to each other via the gateway. If more end devices are desired, several control loops (by building, floor, etc.) must be created via additional gateways. However, several gateways can be managed in one app with the same access.

A cylinder thermostat switches on and off the heat supply from the boiler to the hot water cylinder. It operates by sensing the temperature of the water inside the cylinder, switching on the water heating when the temperature falls below the thermostat setting, and switching it off once this set temperature has been reached. Turning a cylinder thermostat to a higher setting will not speed up the water heating. The speed of water heating is determined by the design of the heating system; eg, by the size of boiler and the heat exchanger inside the cylinder.

The water heating will not operate if there is a time switch or programmer that has switched it off. And the cylinder thermostat will not always switch the boiler off, because the boiler is sometimes required to supply heat to the radiators.

Cylinder thermostats are usually fitted between one quarter and one third of the way up the cylinder. The cylinder thermostat will have a temperature scale marked on it, and it should be set at between 60C and 65C, then left to do its job. This temperature is high enough to kill off harmful bacteria in the water, but raising the temperature of the stored hot water any higher will result in wasted energy and increase the risk of scalding.

If you have a boiler control thermostat, it should always be set to a higher temperature than that of the cylinder thermostat. In most boilers, a single boiler thermostat controls the temperature of water sent to both the cylinder and radiators, although in some there are two separate boiler thermostats.

A programmable room thermostat is both a programmer and a room thermostat. A programmer allows for “On” and “Off” time periods to be set to suit your own life style. A room thermostat operates by sensing the air temperature, switching on the heating when the air temperature falls below the thermostat setting, and switching it off once this set temperature has been reached. So a programmable room thermostat lets you choose what times you want the heating to be on, and what temperature should be achieved while it is on. It will allow you to select different temperatures in your home at different times of the day (and days of the week) in order to match the heating to your particular requirements.

Turning a programmable room thermostat to a higher setting will not speed up the heating of the room. The speed of heating up is determined by the design of the heating system; eg, by the size of boiler and radiators.

Neither does the setting affect how quickly the room cools down. Turning a programmable room thermostat to a lower setting will result in the room being controlled at a lower temperature level, and saves energy.

The way to set and use your programmable room thermostat is to find the lowest temperature settings that provide your own comfort level at the different time periods you have chosen, and then leave it alone to do its job. This is best achieved by first setting low temperatures; say 18°C, and then turning them up by one degree per day until your comfort level is reached. Once the comfort settings have been established then you do not need to adjust them further. Any adjustments above these settings will waste energy and cost you more money. If your heating system is a boiler with radiators, there will usually be only one programmable room thermostat to control the whole house. But different temperatures in individual rooms can be achieved by installing thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) on individual radiators. If you don’t have TRVs, you should choose a comfort setting that is reasonable for the whole house. If you do have TRVs, you can choose a slightly higher setting to ensure even the coldest room is comfortable, then eliminate any overheating in other rooms by adjusting the TRVs.

The clock on the programmer must be kept at the correct time. Some types have to be adjusted in spring and autumn at the changes between Greenwich Mean Time and British Summer Time.

Your programmable room thermostat may provide additional features for temporary adjustments of the heating programme; eg, “Override”, “Advance” or “Boost”. These are explained in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Programmable room thermostats need a free flow of air to sense the temperature, so they must not be covered by curtains or obstructed by furniture. Their performance will be adversely influenced by other heat sources; eg, electric fires, televisions, wall or table lamps.

Programmers allow for “On” and “Off” time periods to be set. Some models switch the central heating and domestic hot water at the same time, whilst others allow for independent switching of the domestic hot water and heating at different times.

Set the “On” and “Off” time periods to suit your own life style. On some programmers you must also set whether you want the heating and hot water to run continuously, run under the chosen “On” and “Off” heating periods, or be permanently off.

The clock on the programmer must be kept at the correct time. Some types have to be adjusted in spring and autumn at the changes between Greenwich Mean Time and British Summer Time.

Your programmer may provide additional features for temporary adjustments of the heating programme; eg, “Override”, “Advance” or “Boost”. These are explained in the manufacturer’s instructions.

The heating will not operate if the room thermostat has switched the heating off. And, if you have a hot water cylinder, the water heating will not operate if the cylinder thermostat detects the hot water has reached the required temperature.

Remove the actuator unit (two screws), and rotate the valve spindle manually. If the spindle turns freely, it is likely a fault lies within the actuator head which can be easily replaced (four wires / 2 screws).

Motorised valves control the flow of water in a central heating system according to the requirements of either the hot water cylinder or central heating system. They are actuated by room and cylinder thermostats.

Two port valves have one inlet and one outlet and simply allow the heating system water to flow straight through (to the controlled circuit) or stop it on demand.

Three port valves have one inlet and two outlets, and can therefore direct the heating system water to either the hot water circuit or the central heating current, or both simultaneously on demand.